Health

A dermatologist weighs in on the biggest TikTok skincare trends — and which ones are actually safe, effective, and eco-friendly

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Skin-cycling is a TikTok skincare trend that's dermatologist-approved and good for the environment. Getty
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From sleeping in a Vaseline mask to taping your face, skincare trends in 2022 encouraged social media users to try out new methods for healthy skin.

But many skincare trends that go viral on TikTok aren't effective, and might even damage your skin. The trends may also create unnecessary waste, which contributes to the 7.9 billion units of rigid plastic created by US beauty companies in a year.

Insider spoke with Dr. Joshua Zeichner, an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, and Aubri Thompson, a cosmetic chemist and sustainable beauty expert, to understand which TikTok beauty trends are both good for your skin and the environment.

Slugging: Dermatologist-approved, reduces waste, but uses fossil fuels

Slugging is a dermatologist-approved trend that can help use up leftover Vaseline bottles instead of creating waste.

Earlier this year, "slugging," or the process of applying petroleum-based products like Vaseline on the face overnight to restore moisture, went viral on TikTok. The trend may have originated in Korea as it's a popular K-beauty hack for people with very dry skin. 

Though an overnight Vaseline mask might feel slimy and "gross" according to Insider reporter Charissa Cheong, Zeichner said slugging can help people with dry or irritated skin get an extra boost outside of their traditional moisturizer. He does not recommend the trend for people with oily or acne-prone skin that already feels greasy.

Thompson said the trend can help reduce waste by using up leftover Vaseline cases. However, this trend uses a fossil fuel-based product (petroleum). She said it would be better if users tried an eco-friendly alternative, such as the One-for-all Balm by CocoKind.

Pore vacuums: Bad for your skin, bad for the environment

"Pore vacuums" are devices that suck oil and dirt out of the skin that some social media users say help with "deep-cleaning" the skin. 

But dermatologists don't recommend the device. Zeichner said pore vacuums won't prevent acne, and too much force can cause skin damage, especially for people using topical retinoids. 

Not only ineffective, pore vacuums also aren't eco-friendly. Thompson said the device encourages users to purchase a new product, thus creating waste in the environment. And since pore vacuums are electronic, their e-waste contaminates the earth with toxic substances like lead, mercury, and arsenic.

Hydrocolloid bandages: Not the best skincare or eco-friendly option, despite using plant-based materials

Hydrocolloid bandages, or pimple patches, create a protective barrier around pimples to reduce bacterial contamination and prevent scratching. The patches also create a moist environment to promote healing and suck up fluid, Insider's Mara Leighton reported.

Though Zeichner said the patches can stop people from picking at their pimples, they don't prevent or treat acne the same way dermatologist-prescribed products do. 

Thompson said hydrocolloid is derived from plant materials, meaning its biodegradable, but the bandage itself may not be compostable. She said to push companies that make pimple patches to do so in a sustainable way.

Skin cycling: Dermatologist-approved and eco-friendly

Dermatologist Whitney Bowe went viral on social media for her four-night skincare she calls skin cycling. Bowe suggests using a chemical exfoliation the first night, a retinoid the next night, and allowing for two days of recovery before repeating.

Zeichner said Bowe's method is great for sensitive skins that can't tolerate daily use of retinol or exfoliating agents. "Spacing out their use and introducing moisturizers on recovery nights can help maintain your skin barrier," he added.

Like with Vaseline, skin cycling is eco-friendly because it encourages the use of existing products rather than purchasing new ones, Thompson said.

Face-taping: Not an effective or eco-friendly option

Face taping, or applying tape (without stretching the skin) to areas where wrinkles might form, might encourage using up existing products, but non-biodegradable products will create plastic waste.

Plus, the trend won't work and can actually cause irritation from the adhesive against the skin, Zeichner said.

Calamine lotion: An ineffective acne treatment, but could reduce waste

Calamine lotion, like pimple patches, won't treat existing pimples. They reduce waste if you already have it on hand, but Zeichner and Thompson both recommend turning to other acne-treating methods.

Zeichner recommends using benzoyl peroxide, which lowers the level of acne-causing bacteria around the zit and reduces inflammation. "Plus the formula contains a blend of naturals that address the needs of the skin, including ingredients like linoleic acid to support the skin barrier," he added.

Better Me tips for sustainable living

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Allana Akhtar was a senior health reporter for Insider, where she covers the emerging wellness industry and general health topics. During the COVID-19 pandemic, Allana wrote extensively about nurses, mask mandates, the vaccine rollout, and disparities in access to health. Her articles include features on nurses needing to re-use PPE in the early days of the pandemic, ones who struggled to get paid time off after getting COVID-19, and those who left bedside care after grueling pandemic working conditions. Allana also spoke to flight attendants and retail workers who faced violence as they enforced mask mandates, and community health workers who said they struggled to receive equitable vaccine access during the initial rollout. Allana now reports on emerging trends within the wellness industry, including the Westernization of indigenous medicine and dangerous wellness trends spread through social media. She also writes about plastic surgery, racial disparities in healthcare, and breaking health news. Allana has won numerous awards for her work, including the Best News Story by the Michigan Press Association in 2015, Best Reporter Covering Nurses in 2019, and the Morris and Lola Wasserstein Award for her contribution to the the University of Michigan's student paper as an Honors student. Before Insider, Allana wrote for USA TODAY, US News & World Report, Money Magazine, Health Magazine, Jalopnik, and more. You can email her at aakhtar@bjinnox.com, call/text her at (646) 376-6058, or follow her on Instagram, TikTok, Twitter, and LinkedIn. Secure tips line: Signal # 248 760 0208'We're grossly unprepared': Nurses share their frustration as the coronavirus spreads with little direction from the government or hospitals on how to mitigate it'Sexy nurse' costumes demean one of the most in-demand professions in American life — and they're a bestseller on Amazon right nowFlight attendants describe 'unprecedented' violence as travel returns and passenger aggression soarsG/O Media fired a queer employee of color who wore crop tops, shorts, and heels to work, violating a brand-new dress code that others say they routinely violated without being punishedContractors at controversial startup Rev say they worked long hours for little pay, feared they could lose their job at any time, and had to transcribe interviews with sexual-abuse survivors without warning