It's a special kind of frustrating to invest in a consistent skincare routine, only to end up with even more acne breakouts or irritation than you started with. Soon, the creams and cleansers in your bathroom cabinet feel like "Clue" suspects as you try to suss out what, if anything, is leading to fresh zits on your forehead.
While everyone's skin is different — and breakouts can be caused by everything from hormones to dirty towels — there are a few types of skincare products out there that are notorious for causing pimples instead of fixing them. Insider talked to two dermatologists to find out which ones to avoid.
Oil-based formulas
Dr. Ivy Lee, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in southern California, told Insider that she usually recommends "avoiding oil formulations of moisturizers and cleansers" for those who are acne-prone, as they can clog up the pores. In general, she advised to always look for the words "non-comedogenic" on the packaging of any new products if your skin is very sensitive to pore congestion.
Dr. Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital's Department of Dermatology in New York City, also said that people with oily or acne-prone skin should be especially vigilant about avoiding oils. "Look for oil-free products, which do not contain mineral or vegetable oils," he said, noting that oil-free formulas that contain occlusive (moisture-sealing) ingredients like dimethicone won't contribute to breakouts.
"I also recommend avoiding squalane, which is a fully saturated oil, increasing the likelihood of breakouts," Zeichner added. Squalane is used in popular cosmetic brands like La Roche Posay and The Ordinary, so it's good to keep an eye on your skin if you use them and notice undesirable changes.
Vitamin E serums
While vitamin E has anti-inflammatory properties, Zeichner said that the oil-soluble vitamin (commonly found in antioxidant serums) can exacerbate oiliness.
"I find that my patients tend to break out from vitamin E and I advise sticking to a straight vitamin C serum instead," he said. Like vitamin E, vitamin C is also an antioxidant and offers similar benefits with a lower risk of pimples.
Too many exfoliants or products in general
"If you are using acne products, be careful not to overdo your skincare routine," Zeichner said. Using too many active ingredients at once or over-exfoliating the skin can "disrupt the skin barrier and lead to irritation," worsening any acne or redness you already have.
If your face feels overloaded with products, you can always try skin cycling — a four-day schedule where you give your skin "rest days" from active products for two out of every four days.
Expired products
If you're still at a loss as to what's causing your skin so much trouble, the answer might be simpler than you think: You could be using expired products.
Lee recommended double-checking the expiration dates on all your products and chucking away the ones that are long gone. While some will just become less effective with time, others can lead to skin irritation from degrading ingredients, Lee previously told Insider.
If you've gotten rid of these four types of products and you're still not sure what's irritating your skin, Lee suggested paring down your routine or setting aside any new products you've tried in the last three months.
