Science

Processed foods make us fatter, lead to cancer, and are linked with early death. But what exactly is a processed food?

hot dog eating
Hot dogs qualify as an ultraprocessed food because they're packed with preservatives. zz/Dennis Van Tine/STAR MAX/IPx 2018 via AP Images
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There's even more evidence that cheap, convenient processed foods are terrible for our health.

The worst offenders — ultraprocessed foods filled with preservatives and added sugar — have been linked to earlier death and higher risk of heart disease, according to a study published December 18 in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition.

A group of Italian researchers followed 24,325 men and women age 35 and older for up to 10 years, collecting data on their eating habits and health outcomes.

They found that participants who ate a diet high in processed foods had a higher risk of dying from cardiovascular disease, heart attack, or stroke. And the more processed foods they ate, the greater the increase in risk, the data found.

Researchers theorized that sugar played a major role in the risk associated with processed food. But neither sugar nor other ingredients like saturated fat could totally explain the health risks, meaning we still don't fully understand why processed food is so dangerous.

This is far from the first time that added sugar, salt, fat, and preservatives have been linked to worse health outcomes.

ham pickle sandwich
Ham and other deli meats are a common processed food.  Bonchan/Getty Images

A groundbreaking 2019 study from the National Institutes of Health found that people on ultraprocessed diets ate more calories and gained more weight than they did when offered the same amount of nutrients from less processed food.

The finding suggests there's something different about how quickly our bodies take in processed foods and how those foods interact with key hormones that help regulate our appetites.

Other researchers have connected packaged and ready-made foods with more cancer cases and more early deaths.

What is processed food?

In this latest study, the most common ultraprocessed foods were processed meats, pizza, and cakes, the researchers found. But not all processed food is created equal. After all, a chicken-salad sandwich prepared at home may still qualify as a processed meal, as could a cheesy quesadilla.

So what exactly designates a certain food as processed, or ultraprocessed?

To answer that question, scientists and nutrition experts often use a four-tiered system called NOVA, which classifies everything we eat as one of these four categories: unprocessed or minimally processed, processed culinary ingredients, processed foods, and ultraprocessed food and drink products.

Unprocessed foods include edible parts of plants (fruits, vegetables, seeds, roots) or animals, as well as fungi and algae. These can be fresh, frozen, or even fermented — the important distinction is that they have not been treated with additives, injected with salt, or rubbed with oil until they're about to be eaten. Examples include dry beans, grains like rice, fresh or dried mushrooms, meat and dairy products, seafood, plain yogurt, nuts, and spices.

Processed culinary ingredients involve a step up in production. These are ingredients made from unprocessed foods, like vegetable oils, butter, and lard. This category also includes extracted food, like honey from combs, sugar from cane, and syrup from maple trees.

Processed foods are items that get infused with ingredients like sugar, salt, and fat to help keep them edible longer. Canned fruits, fermented breads (which most breads are, as they're made with yeast), alcohol, cheese, pickles, and salted nuts all make this list.

Finally, there are ultraprocessed foods. These items are designed to be ready to eat and ready to heat at a moment's notice. To make that possible, these foods are often made in a factory, broken down from their whole or fresh form and treated with thickeners, colors, glazes, and additives. They may be fried before they're packed in cans or wrappers. They might contain high-fructose corn syrup, protein isolates, or interesterified oils (replacements for trans fats, which are now widely banned). Examples of ultraprocessed foods include packaged granola bars, carbonated soft drinks, candy, mass-produced breads, margarine, energy drinks, flavored yogurt, chicken nuggets, and hot dogs.

Wendys spicy chicken nuggets
Fast-food like chicken nuggets are definitely in the ultraprocessed category.  Irene Jiang/Business Insider

These are the items researchers are referring to when they say that ultraprocessed foods are linked to more cancer cases, early deaths, and weight gain.

Of course these items also tend to be more convenient and cheaper than less processed food, since they're less perishable.

"Ultraprocessed food has a lot of advantages in terms of its convenience," Kevin Hall, the lead author of the NIH study, told Business Insider. "It's cheap. It sticks around for a while. You don't have to have all the fresh ingredients on hand, which might spoil. You don't have to have all the equipment to prepare these meals from scratch."

But experts, including Hall, said that if you can afford it, cutting back on ultraprocessed food is a good strategy for maintaining a healthy weight and staying disease-free.

"You can't just tax them and make them more expensive and less convenient for people," he said. "You also have to support access and availability to unprocessed meals."

Read more:

A public-health researcher is warning that ultraprocessed foods like white bread and burgers could damage your heart

Eating a lot of processed foods could cause your body to age more quickly, a new study suggests

Dietitians share their most hated foods, from deli meat and energy drinks to red wine

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Hilary Brueck
Hilary Brueck is a Health Correspondent at Business Insider, where she covers longevity and the quest to improve human aging. She also writes regularly about the complexities of diagnosing and treating cancer, the evolving landscape of GLP-1 drugs, new developments in exercise science, and expert-backed nutrition adviceIn general, she relishes any opportunity to unpack scientific discoveries or examine the latest consumer trends. Her reports have ranged from exploring how sherpas effortlessly climb into the thin air 29,029 feet above sea level to summit Mount Everest, to trudging along a Jersey shore beach with scientists fighting killer pandemic flu viruses by studying bird butts.She spoke with Dr. Anthony Fauci about his vitamin and supplement routine over a cold slice of pizza, and chatted with the world's oldest Nobel Prize winner in his basement solar lab. She also went an entire month without eating any ultra-processed foods (yes, it was time-consuming and challenging). A graduate of Columbia Journalism School and former Peace Corps Volunteer, Hilary speaks English, French, and Malagasy. Previously, Hilary reported for ABC News Radio, Fortune, Forbes, and Al Jazeera America. In her spare time, she likes to run, hike and she is also an aspiring (but very bad) surfer. If you've got a pressing health question, tip, or concern, reach out to hbrueck@bjinnox.com
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Gabby Landsverk
Gabby is a Health Correspondent with a focus on nutrition, fitness, longevity, and all things performance.Her coverage spans from the daily routines of top athletes like Michael Phelps and Coco Gauff to the latest cutting-edge science on building muscle to the rise of peptides, supplements, and GLP medications. She loves a deep dive into fitness subcultures, health companies, or the science behind managing and preventing disease, particularly early-onset cancers. Gabby has a background in investigative journalism (previously contributing research for an investigation on correctional healthcare for the New Yorker).In her free time, she likes lifting heavy, running fast, and playing roller derby for Gotham in New York City.Send story ideas and tips to glandsverk@bjinnox.com.Expertise/Interests
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  • Performance science: training techniques for goals ranging from muscle-building (hypertrophy), general physical preparedness, endurance, and injury prevention, especially for fitness beginners. 
  • Cancer research: unpacking the science behind why certain cancers are on the rise in younger people, how it's affecting the world around us, and what we can do about it. 
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